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What is The Cheapest Siding For a Shed?

Vinyl siding is usually considered to be the most economical for a shed. It’s fairly easy to work with, easy to trim to size to fit around window and door frames and doesn’t need to be painted. It’s resistant to rot, weather and insects.

If you have a means of hauling wood, you may be able to get some really cheap siding for a shed, or even free. It is possible to use reclaimed wood from a building that is being demolished. People have also used wood from pallets for shed siding. Companies that use shipping pallets often throw away any that are damaged, but these pallets usually have just one or two missing slats, leaving the rest usable wood.

What are The Most Popular Shed Siding Options?

Vinyl siding is considered the easiest to install if you are building your own shed. Unless you have access to some free, or almost free, wood, it is also usually the least expensive. It comes in various colors so you don’t have to paint it to have a finished-looking shed. Depending on the brand you choose, it can be very durable and may last over 30 years. It also won’t be prone to dents or fading.

Engineered wood siding is made of a composite mixture of fibers and other kinds of wood. While it looks like real wood it is actually more durable. It can easily fend off blows from a foul-hit baseball or a bump from your lawnmower.

The material usually comes with a warranty, sometimes up to 50 years, and is usually already primed for painting. This product is easy to install and is low maintenance. It does need to be installed properly to avoid possible moisture problems.

Plywood is easy to install and work with as siding. You can find sheets with grooves cut into one side to make it resemble planks. It comes in various thicknesses so you can choose a more durable panel. It will need to be painted or stained to protect it from moisture. Keeping the siding off the ground will also help.

Fiber cement siding is made from cement, sand and cellulose fiber mixed together and rolled into sheets. It then goes through a press to give it a pattern made to resemble various kinds of wood. This material is very durable, being resistant to heat, water, fire and insects.

A manufacturer’s guarantee of 30 years is common. If building your own shed, you may want to consult your supplier, as this material can be difficult to work with. You may want to hire a professional for the siding.

Metal shed siding is a good choice for the ecologically minded as it is 67% recyclable. It comes in a wide choice of colors, with its finish usually guaranteed to last 20-50 years without losing its looks. The siding itself should last up to a century. Of course, it is pest resistant and also resists fire and weather damage. It’s relatively easy for you to install it yourself.

How Good are Shed Siding Pre-Finished Panels?

Pre-finished panels include some of the more popular types, including metal and some composite and fiber cement. Metal panels come with a finish color of your choice which will usually last decades without fading or peeling. Your supplier can steer you toward types and brands featuring pre-finished panels.

Can I Use Composite Shed Siding Panels?

Composite siding panels are made of scrap wood. It’s compressed and bonded with resins and is certainly suitable for shed siding. It is also treated to ward off insects and fungi. It usually comes primed and ready for paint, but some manufacturers offer styles already finished to mimic wood or other textures. These panels can last up to 30 years. They usually need repainting every five to ten years.

What Are Some Engineered Wood Siding Options?

Engineered wood siding is gaining in popularity due to its high durability and low costs, both initially and recurrent costs. It looks surprisingly like natural wood but is not as susceptible to rot as natural wood.

There are several options to choose from, mostly involving the manufacturing process and finishing options. While it usually comes primed and ready to paint, finishing options include both smooth and textured finishes. Most manufacturers offer various color choices also.

One thing most buyers don’t consider is the differences in manufacturing processes among the various brands. Some add chemicals to avoid termite damage and fungus decay, others use additives to improve durability. If you’re concerned about possible problems in the future due to climate or other factors, ask your supplier about the manufacturing differences.

Can I Install Siding on Shed Without Sheathing?

It certainly is possible to install siding on a shed without sheathing. However, there are benefits to sheathing which you may want to consider. Structural sheathing acts as additional support for your shed, while non-structural sheathing provides insulation. However, if you’re not concerned about either, sheathing is not necessary.

How Do You Attach Siding to a Shed?

The method of attaching siding to your shed depends on the material chosen. You may also need different tools for your project. There are some basics that are required for almost any type, however.

Windows and door frames may have to be installed before the siding, as some siding types require special strips around these areas for attachment. Since each type has its own installation requirements, it would be a good idea to secure installation instructions from the manufacturer.

Determine the needed height of the panels. The top should start half an inch below the top of the wall. The bottom edges need to extend about two inches below the bottom plate of the wall framing.

You can put some temporary nails in here to hold the panels in place while fastening. Use a level to make sure it is straight. Your first sheet should be located on a side and flush with the corner of the shed. Starting from the bottom, use three nails in that corner edge.

With a tape measure, mark the frame boards behind the sheet to locate nail placement. You don’t have to nail the other edge if your siding panels will overlap. Install the rest of the sheets around the back and other side. Cut the panels to fit around the door and install.

Flashing, if called for, should be installed before the panels on the roof gables. Gable panels can be measured and then cut on the ground or can be installed and then cut around the gables.

Vinyl siding comes in horizontal or vertical panels that interlock above and below. The J-trim or J-channel is a strip put around all the windows and doors to have a place to connect the siding boards, preventing edges from being exposed.

The panels come with nailing slots which allow movement of the panels caused by expansion and contraction due to temperature changes. The panels can move about half an inch for every 12 feet. It’s also important to leave about a dime’s thickness of space between the nail head and the panel instead of nailing them down firmly.

If this gap isn’t allowed the panels are likely to buckle when they expand. Additionally, about a quarter inch of space should be allowed at the butt joints between panels. Since slight spacing must be left in certain places to allow for the vinyl’s expansion and contraction due to temperature changes, moisture can eventually get under the panels, so a moisture barrier should be added underneath.

Care must also be taken to cut the vinyl smoothly to prevent any jagged edges. If you want to add insulation, it goes on before the moisture barrier.

Composite siding requires using only stainless steel screws and nails. Other types may damage the siding. Installation kits containing the parts you will need are usually supplied with the siding purchase, including a starter strip for the first board, installation clips for attaching the boards to the joists, and various trims and corner strips.

Engineered wood siding is another material that needs space allowed for expansion and contraction. The starter strip should be installed across vertical furring strips installed every 16 inches on center.

This airspace keeps moisture from building up between the siding and structure. Nailing the siding should start at one end working toward the other to prevent rippling. Be careful not to countersink the nails, especially when using a nail gun.

Fiber cement siding can be hand nailed, but since it’s harder and more brittle than wood, you need to drill holes first near the edges. A better choice would be to use a pneumatic coil siding nail gun. Since these are rather expensive, you might want to look into renting one. You’ll want nails that penetrate at least an inch into the studs.

However, while you want the nails snug, you don’t want to drive them in too far or the board will be crushed. Pre-finished fiber cement comes with a plastic coating to protect the paint during installation. Leave the plastic on until finished and then remove.

Metal panels require installing the corner posts first and then the J-channel along the bottom of the wall you’re working on. These channels hide the ends of the panels and come with nail slots to allow for expansion and contraction.

How Do You Cut Siding for a Shed?

Some siding, such as plywood and engineered wood siding can use normal wood cutting tools. Others require special blades or tools. Vinyl siding only takes a utility knife to make cuts along the length. For vertical cuts, tin snips or a hand saw will do the job. Composite panels require carbide-tipped blades for cutting.

Fiber cement siding requires diamond blades. You can use either those made especially for cutting fiber cement or a diamond masonry blade. Ask your supplier about how long these last, as you may need more than one. Carbide toothed blades will only last part of a day.

Metal siding calls for a metal saw or a steel cutting blade on a circular saw. You’ll also need metal shears, which come in power versions. You can use a hacksaw, but since you’ll need to cut around windows and door frames, you might prefer a power saw. This siding also requires galvanized nails and screws.

Can You Put Siding Over Existing Finish on Shed?

While it is possible to put siding over existing siding on a shed, especially vinyl siding, most experts state that it is not a good idea. First of all, you won’t know if there is any damage already existing under the original siding.

There are many horror stories of people buying a house and putting on new siding, only to find all kinds of moisture, rot and damage once the existing siding is removed. Even worse are the stories of a new homeowner finding out the hard way that the previous owner had installed new siding over old.

If the newer siding needed to be replaced, you can imagine what shape the older siding was in. Siding, whether on a home or shed, has the same kinds of problems.

If your shed was built by the homeowner himself and he was not diligent in using good materials or was not as good a carpenter as he thought, there could be all kinds of problems covered up by the old siding. It’s much better to remove the old siding and make sure the underlying structure is sound before putting on new siding.

Secondly, your new siding can cause damage to the old siding. For instance, people who installed new vinyl siding over existing metal siding found that this caused rusting and corrosion in the metal siding. New siding over old must be well sealed to keep out moisture and insects, which can be a problem in siding types with overlapping boards or panels making air spaces between new siding and old.

Last but not least, if you install new siding over old, you will most likely void the siding manufacturer’s warranty. Read your warranty carefully before considering this option.


Buying and installing siding takes a lot of consideration, such as your climate, insect problems in your area, future maintenance, and the pros and cons of the various types. If building a shed, you’ll need to determine how much time each material takes to install and how much you may have to spend on special tools for the job.

Once that decision is made, most siding requiring special strips or fasteners will include those with the order. If you get stuck while doing it yourself, manufacturers will be glad to help or answer questions.

Do I Need a Permit to Wire a Shed?

Now that you have build your shed, your wanting to have some lights and a couple of plug outlets for having power when your working in the shed when its dark.

Unless you live in a very rural area with no zoning or building restrictions, you probably will need a permit to run electricity to a shed. Running electricity to another building almost always requires a permit. While certain smaller size sheds may not need a permit to build, they probably need one to be electrified.

Do I Need a Permit to Wire a Shed?

Since running electricity to another building requires locating it underground, you may need both a building and electrical permit. As building codes and permit rules vary from one locality to another, be sure to check with your zoning or building authority before you start. You may be fined if you do not. Your building authority can tell you what documentation to have for permit approval.

You should have the plans for your proposed shed wiring in hand when you contact your building authority. They will want to see just what you plan to do and may have you submit copies of your plans when applying for a permit.

A diagram of your property indicating the placement of the shed and house will help also. The more prepared you are when you apply for a permit, the more time you’ll save. It’s also a good time to get information on electrical codes and what is required by the building authority.

Do I Need an Electrician to Wire a Shed?

Running the actual supply cable from your house is best done by an underground conduit. This job is quite an undertaking and involves electrical boxes at both ends. Usually, an 18-inch deep trench is dug for the conduit to carry the wiring through rigid metal conduit to the shed. You’ll need your underground utilities marked before this is begun.

A breaker box will be needed inside the shed and probably a shutoff breaker at the connection to the house. This will enable you to shut off power to the shed quickly in case of fire. This shutoff can be located on the outside of the shed, but in case of fire it may not be accessible.

Whatever method is used to get the power to the shed, this part should be done by an electrician. In addition, some building codes will require this. Remember, your new electrical system will need to be inspected by your building authority before it can be put into use to make sure it conforms to code.

Can I Wire My Shed Myself?

You can probably wire the shed yourself if you have electrical experience, but again, you will need to make sure your wiring job will conform to local building codes. Building authorities are sticklers when it comes to electrical work especially.

Not only is it easy for faulty wiring to start a fire, but any shed wiring problems could also cause problems inside your home. You will need to have an inspector come out and look at your handiwork before you can throw the switch.

He will not just give you a pass or fail notice but will list any deficiencies and corrections that need to be made. Rather than an annoyance, this is actually a useful inspection that will inform you of things you may not have noticed. After you have corrected all the listed problems, you will need another inspection and approval before activating the system.

What Size Cable do I Need to Run Power to My Shed?

First of all, determine the amount of power you will need. This will determine the voltage and how many amps you need. Your best bet is to put your shed on a dedicated circuit to keep it from draining power from household appliances.

Most sheds only need 120 volts for lighting and a couple of outlets, but if you plan to use power-hungry equipment such as a welder or window air conditioner you may need 240 volts.

You can use a 14 AWG wire if the shed is within 20 feet of your house, between 12 and 14 AWG if the shed is 20 to 50 feet away, etc. Your electrical supplier can assist you with finding what you need.

How Many Amps do I Need for My Shed?

A typical shed features lighting and a couple of outlets, which will only require around 15 amps to operate the lights and a power tool such as a table saw. If you plan to add a security light to the outside, you may need more.

Add up the amperage requirements of the tools you presently own as well as the lighting and number of outlets you plan to install. It’s better to plan for at least a few amps more than you think you will need just in case you get close to the limit.

That will eliminate the annoying possibility of tripping a breaker in the middle of a saw cut. Also, most people gradually add to their power tool collections as the years go on. Planning for more amps than you need at present will take care of the future purchase of more heavy-duty tools.

If you think you’ll need a 240-volt system, a 50 or 60 amp breaker may be required. This depends on what kinds of tools or other items you plan to run, especially at the same time. Again, your electrical supply store can help you figure out what you’ll need.

Another source of information would be the electrician who installs the main power cable. He’ll be glad to give you advice on what kind of breaker system to use for your planned usage.

A 50 or 60 amp breaker can handle a window air conditioner or electric heater besides your tools and lighting for those who plan to spend a lot of time in their sheds, such as using it as a workshop for long-term projects.

For an air conditioner or heater, you may want to consider installing two separate breakers off the main breaker. This will enable you to put the air system on one and the rest on the other so they don’t affect each other. If your looking for only lighting for your shed check out my article Top 5 Best Outdoor Shed Lighting Ideas and Solutions.


Having electricity in your shed brings a whole new possibility of uses for the space. If you’re planning on adding a shed to your yard, consider adding electricity to the building plans. If you already have your shed, adding electricity can only make it that much more useful. You’ll be glad you did anytime you have to check on something after dark and can light the whole interior rather than relying on the narrow beam of a flashlight.

Is it Easy to Build Your Own Shed?

If you’re looking for a shed to keep those valuable things locked away safely without cluttering up the garage. Maybe your on a budget and want to build your own shed.

The answer is yes, if you have some experience with working with the basic tools and good at following directions. Most sheds come with instructions and with the many kits you can have a shed in a couple weekends.

Building Your Own Shed

There are many advantages to building your own shed. It will almost certainly cost less than buying one. You also have more options to plan and build just the kind of shed you need, with the type of doors and windows you want and your own placement.

You can put in shelving that will organize your smaller tools and weed killer without blocking easy access for the larger items. There’s no need to draw out blueprints – many websites offer plans and instructions for building a shed yourself.

Depending on the size, it may only take a few days, less if you have help. Some of the smaller shed kits can be assembled in one day. If you’re a complete beginner you can read my article Is Building a Shed Something a Beginner Should Try?

Is it Cheaper to Build Your Own Shed?

It is almost always cheaper to build your own shed, but it depends on several factors. You probably have a hammer and screwdrivers around, but you’ll need other tools, such as a circular saw, table saw and other tools.

If you don’t already have them, the purchases will add a few hundred dollars to the cost of the shed. In addition, if you start from scratch with just instructions rather than buying a kit, you’ll have to replace any lumber you don’t cut correctly. While anyone can make mistakes, if you are new to construction, you’ll be more likely to make mistakes and add to the cost.

The other consideration is a foundation. While a shed can be placed right on the ground, you’ll need to make sure the ground is level first and use some kind of waterproofing to prevent moisture problems such as mold and rot.

Using concrete blocks, pea gravel and some 4x4s will give you a good foundation and allow airflow under your shed, keeping moisture at bay. The pea gravel is also handy in making sure your shed is level and can be added to or subtracted if more leveling is needed later on.

Is it Hard to Build a Shed by Yourself?

While it’s certainly easier to build a shed if you have several people, it’s not really hard to build one yourself. You’ll need to plan how you intend to handle tasks that usually involve helpers, such as putting up the framing walls and raising the roofing frames.

While they might not be too heavy for you to handle, you’ll need some method to keep them in place while you start nailing them in. Having help for parts of the project will make it go more quickly.

If you don’t have experience in roof framing and finishing, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to have some help for the roofing portion of the project. Whatever type and slope you plan for the roof, at least you’d have somebody to keep the ladder steady. If you do slip off there is somebody right there to help you. If you ever considered a metal shed check out my article Is a Metal Storage Shed a Good Option?

Is a Shed kit Easier to Build?

Shed kits are much easier to work with than building from scratch, especially for people with little construction experience. Instead of looking at a pile of lumber and suddenly feeling a bit of the “what now” panic, the kits help you go through the whole process step by step.

With each piece of lumber having been cut to the proper size, there’s no chance of cutting mistakes or something not fitting correctly. The kits come with a list of tools you’ll need for that kit. Building with a kit also cuts down on the construction time.

Shed kits can be a little more expensive than building one from scratch from instructions, but they can also save money in the long run. Having all the lumber pre-cut to size will eliminate having to replace miss-cut lumber.

Another advantage is that kit companies often offer some customization opportunities in their kits, so you’re more likely to get just the shed you want, or at least get close. Even though the kits are designed to eliminate guesswork, if you do get stuck or have a question, the kit companies have customer service representatives to help you.

What Tools Do You Need to Build a Shed?

Opinions vary, but the basics include a hammer, circular or jigsaw, ladder, cordless drill, caulking gun, framing square, screwdriver, measuring tape, stakes, line and level. If you are building it from scratch you’ll also need sawhorses for cutting your lumber. Other tools you may want to consider are a chalk line, nail gun and router.

If your shed plans include metal for the roof or siding you’ll also need heavy gloves to handle the metal sheets, a wrench for the bolts, level, pry bar, pliers, pipe and crescent wrenches, hacksaw and perhaps a rivet gun.

You’ll also need some other things, such as eye and ear protection, sufficient extension cords for any electric tools, a place to put scraps, and tarps to protect your materials in case of a sudden rainstorm. The more you have on hand before you start, the less time you’ll waste running back and forth getting things you missed.

Other Considerations

The location of your proposed shed is vital. Of course, you want it to be easily accessible, but you should avoid placing it under tall trees or utility lines, or in places where rainwater tends to run. Having it in a more open area instead of around plantings will limit moisture problems. The more level the ground is already the less work you’ll have to do to level the foundation.

Before starting, you’ll want to contact any city or other authorities to see if you need a building permit for your shed. Since the smaller sizes may not require a permit, you’ll want to decide on the size before seeking the permit. There may also be limitations on where you can locate your shed, especially in an HOA or other residential area. If your not sure about permits you can read my article Do You Require a Building Permit For a Storage Shed?


Building your own shed will bring you a sense of accomplishment every time you see it. If you’re considering a shed, you really are limiting yourself if you don’t look into building your own. Good luck and thanks for reading.

What’s the Best Insulation for a Shed? [Batt, rigid or loose fill?]

Having an insulated shed will give you a comfortable place to work in and a great place to start your seedlings. Its just a matter of choosing which type of insulation will be best for your shed.

The best insulation for a shed is “batt” insulation, which comes in different sizes and thickness and can be used in walls, floors, and ceilings. As well it is quite easy to cut and install for those who are building and insulating the shed yourself.

In this article I will go over “batt” type insulation, the different thicknesses and width and how to choose the correct batt insulation for your shed. I will also go over calculating how much batt insulation and thickness you will need for your shed.

What’s the Best Insulation for a Shed?

I’ve been building sheds and other outbuildings for years and when it comes to insulating a shed I have found that “batt” type insulation is the best. Here is why it is the best choice:

  • The most cost-effective insulation you can buy.
  • One of the easiest types of insulation to install and is perfect for the do-it-yourself person.
  • Is easily cut to fit into any size space with a basic utility knife and straightedge.
  • You can buy it in multi-packs or rolls and some even come with a paperback vapour barrier already attached.
  • It comes in various thicknesses and 2 widths to fit into 24-inch or 16-inch framing sizes.
  • Can be used to insulate ceilings, floors, walls and can be cut into narrow strips for insulation around windows and doors.

Benefits of Using Batt Insulation

  • Works as a good fire retardant and you can get batt insulation that is fire resistance if you need to provide that protection to your out-building.
  • Also provides good noise reduction especially if your shed is located near a busy highway. You can get batt insulation that is especially made for sound proofing as well.
  • Batt insulation is very resistant to mold and mildew and when a proper vapour barrier is installed over the insulation it’s very effective at preventing mold and mildew growth.
  • Very eco-friendly and most new batt insulation is made from renewable resources which helps lessen your carbon footprint.

Is it Worth it to Insulate Your Shed?

This question comes up a lot, after all its only a shed and why should you spend the money and time to insulate the shed? That depends on what you are going to be using the shed for, if its just for storing lawn equipment or toys and bikes then you likely do not need to insulate it.

On the other hand, many folks use there shed for more then just storage. Some like to use it for gardening or as a workshop and even as an office space or a place to get away for a while. For these situations insulating the shed will provide comfort and quiet place to relax.

Here are some benefits of insulating your shed:

  • Temperature Control… Many folks store paints and canning goods in their shed so you’ll want to keep it at a temperature that won’t allow these types of items to freeze. Insulating the shed and using a small heater will prevent these items form freezing and being ruined.
  • Cuts Down on Moisture… When moisture is in the shed it allows the formation of mold and mildew which can be very unhealthy. Insulating the shed and installing a vapour barrier will prevent mold and mildew from forming.
  • Longer Lifespan… Insulating a shed will also help prevent bugs from finding their way into it. The chances of rot will be less which means your investment will last much longer than a shed that is not insulated.
  • Increased Usability… Another perk of insulating your shed is you can use it for an office space, workout area and even a man cave or she cave. Check out my article “How to Make Your Very Own She Shed Getaway” for turning a shed into a She shed!

How Much Batt Insulation Do I Need?

This will depend on the size of your shed and if you are wanting to insulate the ceiling, walls, and floor. Below I will list the batt insulation amounts for a standard 8’- 0” x 12’- 0” shed.

Floor… This can be calculated by calculating the square footage of your floor area, in the example being used it would be 8 feet times 12 feet would come to 96 square feet of batt insulation for the floor. Use the dimensions for your shed to get the amount needed.

Walls… I will use the example size with 8-foot ceiling height, that would be 2 walls at 8 feet times 12 feet and 2 walls at 8 feet times 8 feet, for a total square footage of 320 square feet. Now subtract the square footage of any windows and doors you have and this will give the amount of batt insulation you will need to insulate the walls.

Ceiling… In most cases the ceiling square footage will be the same as the floor square footage, using the example of the 8’- 0” x 12’- 0” the required amount of batt insulation would be 96 square feet. You can subtract the square footage of any openings in the shed ceiling, such as a skylight.

What Sizes Does Batt Insulation Come in?

Batt insulation comes in 2 widths that are made to fit between the framing members for 16 inch and 24-inch centers. The 16-inch insulation is made [15 inches to fit snug] when using 16 inch framing centers. The 24-inch insulation is made [23 inches to fit snug] when using 24 inch framing centers.

Batt insulation comes in bundles and are 48 inches long, you can also get batt insulation in rolls that come in various lengths to suit your particular needs. They also have different sizes for other applications which are used for other purposes which I will not get into these in this article.

What Thicknesses of Batt Insulation Do I Need?

The thickness also known as the [r-factor] determines which thickness to use for different framing sizes. Let’s look at the 3 main situations for insulating a shed:

Floor… In some cases you will want to insulate the floor in your shed, typically the floor will be framed with either 2x4s or 2x6s or even 2x8s depending on how wide the shed is.

For 2×4 floor joist you can use R-12 batt insulation.

For 2×6 floor joist you can use R-22 batt insulation.

For 2×8 floor joist you can use R-28 batt insulation.

Insulation a shed floor requires more work and planning to be used and will need to be installed before you install the flooring material or if your shed is high enough off the ground you can install in from below. You can read my article 10 Tips For Insulating a Shed where I go into detail on insulation a shed floor.

Walls… It’s very common to insulate the walls and in most cases the walls will be framed with 2x4s and in some situations 2x6s will be used.

For 2×4 walls you can use R-12 batt insulation.

For 2×6 walls you can use R-22 batt insulation.

Ceiling… This will depend on the style of roof you have, you should decide if your going to insulate your shed before choosing the type of roof to use.

If you are using a slanted or lean to roof you likely will be using 2×6 rafters which means you can use R-12 insulation [3 ½ inch] which leaves room for air to circulate.

If you are using a gable roof, then you can use thicker insulation, R-22 works good in this type of roof and leaves room for air circulation above the batt insulation, you’ll also want to be sure to install gable air vents on each gable end.

How to Install Batt Insulation

Installing batt insulation is something that most people can do themselves. Get the insulation size that is made for the framing size you have, either 16-inch centers or 24-inch centers. The batt insulation will be 1 inch narrower. What I mean is if your shed is framed using 16-inch centers then the insulation will be 15 inches wide.

The actual open space between framing members using 16-inch centers is 14 ½ inches. The insulation is made to be ½ inch wider [15 inches]to allow a snug fit between the framing members.

Begin by installing all the full pieces you can, next using a straight edge and a Olfa rachet lock  heavy duty utility knife. Be very careful with these types of knives they are sharp and will cut thru the insulation in one or two passes. When you’re measuring the piece of batt insulation make sure to add ½ inch more to the length before you cut it.

Carefully place the insulation into the cavity and don’t overpack it in, it needs to be flush with the outside of the wall framing and fit snugly into the cavity to ensure a tight fit. You don’t want any gaps that will allow cold air to come into the shed. Follow the same procedure for the ceiling insulation.

Tips When Installing Batt Insulation

1] Don’t compress the batt insulation during installation, compressing cause the fibers to be much less effective and can really affect the R-factor of the insulation.

2] When installing the batt insulation and the piece is too long Don’t fold it or cram it into the space, make sure you cut the pieces to fit snuggly without folding or compressing them.

3] Once completed the insulation job wash your clothes by themselves to remove any residue of insulation dust from them.

What Should You Do Prior to Installing Batt Insulation?

1] Need Permit? Call your local building authority to see if a permit is required.

2] Need Electrical? Are you going to need power to your shed to run heating and cooling devices? Do you need plug outlets and lights? Be sure to add these before you insulate the shed.

3] Need Plumbing? You may want to have water in the shed and maybe even a toilet, make sure you have these installed before insulating.

4] Need Phone/ Cable? These services should also be installed before insulating is done.

5] Need Windows? Decide on windows, doors and even skylights and have them installed before insulating.

How to Protect Batt Insulation From Damage?

Once you’ve gone thru all the work of installing insulation in your shed your going to want to protect it from getting damaged. Applying a 6mm or 10 mm vapour barrier will provide some protection, but it can still be damaged.

I have found the cheapest way to protect it is to install ¼ inch plywood or 3/8 OSB or even ½ inch drywall on the walls and ceiling give the best protection. I like to paint the walls and ceiling a bright white which really gives you the most amount of light.

Do I Need to Install a Vapor Barrier in a Shed?

If your not planning on heating or cooling the shed you won’t need to install a vapor barrier, doing so can cause the growth of mold and encourage moisture. However, you will need a vapour barrier under a concrete slab if your building the shed on a concrete slab, this will prevent any ground moisture from getting into the shed from the ground.

Lets look at the 4 situations of sheds:

Air-Conditioned… If you live in a very hot area and have insulated the shed, apply the vapor barrier on the outside of the insulation. This method stops moisture from getting into the shed causing problems.

Heated shed… Living in a cold area will require you to insulate the shed and you may decide to install some form of heating so you can use the shed in cold weather. In this situation you need to install the vapor barrier on the inside of the shed and will prevent condensation from getting into the insulation.

Not insulated… If you don’t have any type of insulation in your shed you DON’T want to install a vapor barrier on walls and ceiling, as mentioned only use a vapor barrier under a concrete slab.

Insulated… If you still want to insulate your shed for other reasons and it is not going to be heated or air-conditioned DON’T use any vapor barrier. If the issue of rot or mold is possible use a rock-wool batt insulation, make sure you have the shed ventilated, especially the attic.

What Do I Use For a Vapor Barrier?

The number one choice is to use 6mm clear plastic vapor barrier, it is installed over the walls and ceiling and attached to the framing members with staples. All the joints are sealed using tuck tape and the top and bottom is sealed use acoustic sealant. Another good option is 10mm polyethylene vapor barrier which is much more durable and does a better job at keeping moisture out.


Having a shed is great for storage, but for many folks using the shed for other things like and exercise room, office or a place to get away for a while your going to want the shed to be comfortable and usable year round and insulating it gives you a place to use year round. Good luck and I hope you enjoyed reading this article.

How to Build a Ramp to a Shed

How to Build a Ramp to a Shed

Knowing how to build a ramp to a shed can be real handy especially if your shed is off the ground and you need to store a riding mower or other bigger heavier piece of equipment. With sheds built from treated wood you’re going to need to step up 6 or more inches to get in.

In this article I’m going to look at a few 3 tips for building a shed ramp and some tips for picking the right ramp material, slope and finish. I have also added a section with a [Step by Step Guide] for building your ramp.

How to Build a Ramp to a Shed

Tip Number 1] Ramp Slope… Having the right slope and travel for your ramp will make it much easier to bring in equipment like riding lawnmower or other wheeled machines. The standard slope for ramps is 1 inch of slope for every 10 inches of travel.

Buy a Shed or Build

So ideally if the step up to your shed is 6 inches you would want to have the ramps length to be 60 inches. If you’re cramped for space you can make the ramp steeper if needed, just remember the steeper the more dangerous it will be especially if it’s wet or snow covered.

Tip Number 2] Functional Use… Some pieces of equipment will easily go up the ramp, but you’ll want to be very careful with a riding mower. These are closer to the ground and can bottom out at the top or bottom when using the ramp.

Also check that it can clear the doorway with getting stuck in the middle. Also if you’re going to be driving a quad up the ramp with a snow blade on it, make sure the blades not going to hit the ramp. It’s better to have the ramp longer and having less slope to accommodate the type of equipment you’re going to be storing in the shed.

You may have to set up a temporary ramp somewhere so you can determine what is required for your particular equipment before building the ramp and then finding out that the equipment is going to get stuck or hung up when using the ramp.

Non Slip PaintTip Number 3] The Surface of The Ramp… One of the downfalls of a shed ramp is it can be slippery when it rains or if snow and ice build-up on it. This is usually not a problem because most folks don’t use the shed during the winter months.

Here are a few things you can do to keep your shed ramp safe and not slippery:

Number 1] Non – Slip Paints… If your ramp is going to have a plywood surface you can use a non – slip epoxy coating. I’m going to recommend “SlipDoctors DuraGrip” coating, it comes in 3 handy sizes of 1 gallon, 1 quart and 5 gallon pail. You can see it here on Amazon.

Number 2] Anti-Slip Adhesive Tapes… This type of anti-slip comes in different sizes, colors and textures to provide traction on ramps. You can buy the anti-slip tape for inside or outside use and will work on many different types of surfaces.

Make sure you read the instructions to make sure the particular tape you’re looking at will work on the type of surface your shed ramp is made from. You can also get the anti-slip tape that will glow in the dark which is really handy if you need to enter the shed in the dark.

Number 3] Asphalt Rolled Roofing… This has got to be the easiest answer to how to build a ramp to a shed that’s safe to use. If you use the 90 pound type it will last for a long time. Make sure you get the rolled roofing that uses a mineral surface that provides the anti-slip grit material.

When installing the rolled roofing use galvanized roofing nails, the ones that have the big heads, they will secure the roofing material to your ramp. Be sure to use nails every 2 to 3 inches along the edges to prevent lifting. Rolled roofing is a good choice if you live in areas that get lots of snow and is easy to shovel the snow off.

Ryans Shed Plans

Number 4] Rubber Mats… You’ll see this type of matting in many gyms, day cares and even on some wheelchair ramps. The usual types are made to interlock and there is some types that can be glued down using their self-adhesive backing.

The interlocking type can be taken apart and used somewhere else if you just renting or needing a short term non-slip ramp. It dry’s fast and can be kept clean with a normal broom. Be sure to get the rubber matting that can be used outside. Not a good option if using for a wheelchair ramp that is fairly steep as the tires will sink into the matting making it difficult to maneuver.

Ramp Materials

Let’s take a look at some 3 different materials that can be used to build a ramp to a shed:

Building a RampNumber 1] Concrete Pavers or Blocks… Probably the easiest is using concrete pavers and treated wood for your ramp. Here are the steps to follow for this type of ramp. I have added a photo so you can see how’s it’s constructed.

Step 1] Using a spade remove any grass the size of the concrete pavers so the pavers will be flush with the ground level.

Step 2] Install the pavers side by side and level them and then pack dirt up against them from all 4 sides to hold them securely into place.


Try to adjust the pavers so your ramp will be 6 inches wider on both sides of the door opening size.

Step 3] Install a ledger against the shed, keep the ledger low enough so it sits attached to the shed base with 4 inch lag bolts. Make sure you keep it low enough to allow for the 2×4 ramp and plywood thickness.

Depending on your situation keep the top of the ramp ¾ of an inch down from the ramp floor. This will allow room for the door or doors to open without hitting the ramp surface.

Step 4] Cut your treated 2×4 supports to fit against the shed and on an angle to lay flat on the pavers, you’ll need to cut the bottoms on a long angle to sit flat on pavers. Bet sure to use some end cut sealant on any surfaces that you have cut to protect them from rot.

Step 5] Install the treated 2x4s as per drawing and using the treated blocks cut small pieces in between the 2×4 supports and attach them to the concrete pavers with construction adhesive or if you can use concrete nails or tapcon concrete fasteners.

Step 6] Secure the tops of your 2×4 supports with joist hangers or you can use pressure blocks, these are blocks of 2x4s that you attach between the 2×4 supports and nail to shed and then toe nail the supports into the blocks.

Step 7] Install your treated ¾ inch treated or pressure treated plywood to the ramp. Use exterior grade deck screws and countersink them a little bit. Now you can install your anti-slip coating if you need it.

Number 2] Pressure Treated 4×4 or 6×6… This is similar to using concrete pavers or concrete blocks. You would dig and bury the pressure treated piece of lumber and then follow steps 3 to 7 for building a ramp using the concrete pavers or blocks.

Number 3] Concrete Ramp… This is the strongest and longest lasting ramp option, and using a course broom you can make the surface very anti-slip. That being said the concrete ramp is the most expensive and the most complicated to construct.

While it does have a few advantages it’s not a choice I would pick. It requires extensive ground preparation and is permanent. If your shed moves a little bit from frost you could find that it has sunk into the ground and you may not be able to open the door.

How to Build a Ramp to a Shed

Here’s a very simple and easy way to build a ramp to your shed using basic tools. Why fight trying to move your mower, wheelbarrow or other large item from your shed. I’m going to go over this easy ramp build step by step:

Material List:

How to Build a Ramp to a ShedHere’s a picture of the Ramp

You’re going to need a couple of stringers for the supports for the ramp decking. First you’ll need to determine the total height that the ramp needs to be. This will determine the size of the stringers and the length of them.

If your ramp needs to be 6 inches high, it will need to be 60 inches long, so you’ll need a 5 foot pressure treated 2×6.

If your ramp is between 6 to 8 inches high, it will to be 80 inches long, you’ll need a pressure treated 2×8  7 feet long.

If your ramp is 8 to 12 inches high it will need to be 120 inches long, you’ll need 1 pressure treated 2×12 10 feet long.

These dimensions are for following the 10 inches of slope for every 1 inch in rise. However if your cramped for space you can shorten the ramp a bit, just keep in mind that the steeper the ramp the more dangerous it will be.

Your also going to need some treated 2x6s for the deck, and depending how long your ramp is will determine how many you’ll need.

You will also need a couple pounds of 3 inch deck screws to attach the boards.

How to Build a Ramp to a Shed [Step by Step Guide]

Once you have determined the length and height of your ramp, and the required deck boards and stringer length you’re ready to begin.


If you ramp is going to be wider than 3 feet you may want to add an addition stringer or 2. It’s also recommended that you make the ramp at least 3 inches wider on each side then the door opening width. 

Step 1] Prepare Stringers… Cut your stringer to the required length, next using a straight edge or a chalk line mark a diagonal and cut the stringer in half. Set the 2 pieces side by side and mark and trim them so there flush with one another.

Step 2] Seal the Cuts… Using a cut & seal product which is used to seal and protect any cuts you make in treated and pressure treated lumber apply 1 or 2 coats to the cuts to prevent rotting.

Ryans Shed Plans

Step 3] Secure the Pieces… You’ll want to use a framing square and one of the 2×6 treated deck boards to square the ends of the stringer and check on the squareness while you’re installing the deck boards to the stringer.


If you prefer to use ¾ inch treated plywood for your deck surface you’ll need to add more stringers so there not over 16 inches between them.

Step 4] Install the Boards or Plywood… Precut your treated 2×6 boards to at least 1 inch longer than the width of the ramp, this will allow for ½ inch sticking past on both sides, this is to create a drip edge so the water runs of the ramp onto the ground. If you’re using treated ¾ plywood cut it so it has the same amount sticking past.

Step 5] Attaching the Deck Material… This is where you’re going to be using those 3 inch deck screws. It’s a good idea to pre-drill the 2×6 deck boards ahead of time and keep in mind the piece at the very bottom will need to be drilled higher or closer to the top of the board, this is to have some solid wood to attach the board to stringer.

Because the stringer is cut tapered to nothing there isn’t going to be enough material for the screws going thru the deck board into the stringer. So remember to screw that board up higher so it has some material to attach too.


Look at the grain of the board and install it with the grain curve up and when the board dries it won’t bow and twist making a tripping hazard on your ramp.

Step 6] Attaching Your Ramp… Depending on the ground where your ramp is going to sit you can place the ramp where it goes and then using a spade mark the location and then remove the grass and either use concrete pavers or gravel to make a suitable base for you ramp.

Ryans Shed Plans

You can attach your ramp to your shed with screws or you can attach a piece of 2×6 the width of the inside of ramp between the stringer and then slide the ram in place and using 4 inch deck screws attach the stringers to the 2×6 block of wood, this will secure it to the shed at the right height and can be easily removed if you need to.


Now you will have a ramp to access your shed with any large pieces of equipment, it also makes it much easier to go in and out of your shed with smaller items too. I hope you have found the article helpful and give it a share. Thanks

8 Ways to Keep Insects and Mice From Living in Your Shed

Keep insects and mice away

Don’t you just hate it when you go into your shed to get something and there’s a big spider hanging about the items you’re trying to get? A few years ago I had stored some items in a cardboard box on the shelve in my shed, and low and behold there were mice droppings everywhere and a family of mice had moved into the box…. What a mess!

There are even poisonous spiders that can give you a nasty bite and not to mention the diseases that mice carry, so you’ll need to deal with these issues quickly to avoid having a major infestation to deal with as well as the damage the mice will do to your stuff.

In this article I’m going to go over how to prevent mice and insects from getting into your shed in the first place as well as how to deal with them once there already moved in. I’m also going to look at some natural and other methods for getting rid of spiders and mice and some preventive things you can do to keep them out. 

8 Ways to Keep Insects and Mice From Living in Your Shed

Bayer Suspend InsecticideLet’s begin with insects…Particularly spiders! I hate spiders so let’s look at what you can do so spiders and other insects can’t get into your shed.

Number 1] Prevention… This is the first line of defence and it works for mice too, begin by removing shrubs, brushes from the area around your shed. Also keep the grass well-trimmed around the shed and whipper snip around the edges of the bottom of the shed.

Number 2] Use a Pesticide… Another good way to keep spiders and other insects out of your shed is to use an insecticide and spray around the outside of the shed and in areas that the insects can sneak into the shed.

I’m going to recommend the “Bayer Suspend Insecticide” because it’s a great general purpose concentrate that deals with a wide variety of insects. You can dilute it down and it has a long residual life and is safe for use inside your home. It comes in a 16 ounce size so it’s going to last a long time.

It has 1624 ratings and 320 answered questions so you can get all the information about this product before buying it. It also has a 4.4 out of 5 rating. You can read the reviews and get more information here on Amazon.

Number 3] Inspect Windows… Windows are often an entry point for insects especially if you have the window open for fresh air. Make sure all the windows have screens that aren’t damaged. Many folks use older used windows for their sheds so you’ll want to make sure they fit snugly and there are no gaps around the frame.

Number 4] Doors… Just like the window, check that there are no gaps when the door is closed especially the bottom of the door. Make sure it closed tightly again the frame to seal out insects. Add a door sweep to make sure the doors bottom is sealed when the door is closed.

Number 5] Caulking… Windows and doors are especially bad for letting in spiders, replace the screen if needed. Start on the outside and caulk the outside of the window and then go inside and caulk any cracks on the inside of the window. Do the same for the door, if needed add some new exterior trims and apply caulking under and around the new trims.

Number 5] Plug Holes… Sometimes you’ll have openings in the wall to run a power cord for power in the shed. Are there may be other holes on the outside of the shed from settling. Fill these holes with some expanding foam especially in the winter when insects and mice are looking for a dry place for the winter.

You can check out Amazon’s full line of expanding foams and seals here on Amazon.

Number 6] Keep Your Shed Clean Inside… Keeping the inside of the shed clean and organized as well as using plastic containers with lids will also stop spiders from hiding and setting up shop in your shed.

Shed Plans

Number 7] Inspect The Items… Before putting stuff into the shed give them a good cleaning and for garden tools hose them down. Spiders like to hide on items and then they get a free ride into the shed.

Number 8] Weather Stripping… Check out the weather stripping around the door and if it’s not sealing tightly or worn, now’s a good time to replace it.

How to Remove Spiders That Are Inside Already

If you have spiders already living in your shed you have a couple options: Using a chemical approach or a natural approach. Some would rather use chemicals while others won’t feel comfortable having chemicals in their shed especially if you have kids and pets.

If your OK with using chemicals and want a fast extermination of spiders and other insects in your shed I’m going to recommend “Raid Concentrated Deep Reach Fogger” for the fast way to get rid of all the spiders in your shed. You can check it out here on Amazon.

Removing Spiders Using Natural Ways

There are all kinds of home remedies for repelling and killing spiders and depending on your situation deciding on which one will be best for you can be overwhelming. I’m going to go over the most common and successful methods and you can choose the one that best suits your needs.

Number 1] Eucalyptus… You may be able to find some branches art a garden store, if not you can get eucalyptus oil and apply some into cracks and places that are small that spiders can enter in thru. The secret of eucalyptus oil is its odor, spiders don’t like the smell.

Number 2] Turn Off The Lights… If you have lights on in the shed and on the outside this will attract other insects which spiders feed on. So by keeping the lights off their food source will remain outside.

Number 3] Vacuum… If you have a shop vac you can go around the inside of your shed and vacuum the spiders and cob webs up. Also go around the outside and do the same thing, this method doesn’t necessarily kills all the spiders so you can dump out your shop vac into a plastic bag and seal it and place in the garbage can.

Ideas to Naturally Repel Spiders

The key to having a good spider repellent is odor, and you need to keep in mind that most spiders interrupt odor with touch. When using repellents that rely on odor you’ll need to place the repellent where spiders are coming in from or in a place where you see spiders most often.

7 Ways to Repel Spiders

Number 1] Vinegar… This is a great way to keep spiders out and most folks already have vinegar. Using a spray bottle combine the vinegar and an equal amount of water in the spray bottle, spray where you see spiders and any areas that spiders can get in.

Go outside and spray around windows and doors and any other places that they can enter from. You’ll need to spray the vinegar water solution at least once every 5 days to see good results.

Artizen Peppermint Essential OilNumber 2] Vanilla, Dish Soap and Vegetable Oil… This is another great repellent, mix a cup of vegetable oil with and ¼ cup of dish soap [preferably Dawn] and add I teaspoon of vanilla extract. Mix these ingredients together in a separate container.

In your spray bottle add one tablespoon of the mixture to 1 cup of water. Make sure the mixture is well mixed and now you’re ready to spray. Spray into all the areas where spiders may be getting into. This mixture will last a couple of weeks before you need to re-apply.

Number 3] Peppermint Oil… This is my favorite for spiders; it is also very good for other insects and mice. I use a 455ml spray bottle and add about 5 to 6 drops of natural peppermint oil and give the bottle a good shake.

Now you can spray all the areas that you suspect the spiders are coming in, if you know where there coming in from you can use an eyedropper and put a few drops there. A good 100% pure peppermint oil is “Artizen Peppermint Essential Oil you can see it here on Amazon.

Number 4] Lemon and Lavender… These work great at repelling spiders and combining the lemon and lavender and then using some cotton wads dipped into the solution will make you some powerful balls that you can put in a few spots in the shed and watch the spiders disappear!

Number 5] Citrus Oils… Another great option, in you sprayer add about a cup of water and then 4 to 5 teaspoons of the citrus oil. Give it a mix and you’re ready to go, you can spray this solution liberally and be sure to hit the spots that are known to have spiders.

Not only repels spiders and other insects it also leaves a nice fresh sense in the shed, apply your citrus spray about once a week.

Number 6] Borax Soap and Baking Powder… This method is a bit messy, what you do is spread the borax soap or if you have some to spare baking powder on your sheds floor especially around the perimeter. What happens is the spiders will usually eat this and then they will die.

Number 7] Using Chestnuts… Haven’t had much success with chestnuts, others have had good results using them. I would try the other methods first before giving chestnuts a go.

Keeping Insects and Mice and Other Critters Out

While keeping the bugs and other critters from getting into the shed in the first place is the best choice, then you won’t have to deal with them inside and the messes they make. There are some poisonous ones that you’ll want to keep out to prevent being bitten and having to seek medical attention.

I was bitten by a brown recluse a few years ago and it was very painful so I’m always looking for ways to keep these bad spiders out of my shed.

Some Ways to Prevent Entry into Your Shed

There are some things you can do to prevent insects and mice from gaining entry into your shed.

Number 1] Damaged Wood… If there are areas of your sheds foundation that are damaged from moisture and rot you’re going to need to replace these areas. Rotted areas allow for the insects and mice to get into your shed.

Also check the outside for areas that are split that you can repair and inside check the floor for spots that are weak and have small holes. You’ll need to repair these areas, for the floors you can use some pieces of sheet metal to cover the bigger holes and this will help keep them critters out.

Ryans Sheds Plans

Number 2] Upkeep and Maintenance… Keep your shed maintained, if it finished with wood caulk cracks and re-paint every few years or as needed. If your shed is finished with vinyl siding look for cracks or holes and repair these as needed.

With a shed that’s finished with metal you’ll need to check around windows, doors and other openings for cracks and small holes and install new caulking as needed. Also inspect any vents and window screen and repair or replace as needed.

Number 3] Proper Ventilation… When sealing your shed against insects and mice it can be really easy to block your shed from having proper ventilation which will cause rotting and mold a mildew to grow.

Air Vent Inc Foundation VentMake sure you use the correct air vents for air circulation under the shed and for air circulation inside the shed. I like the “Air Vent Inc Foundation Vent” for good ventilation for under your shed, put one in each end. I love these because they can be opened and closed as needed and have built in screens. Check them out here on Amazon.

Bewox Plastic Round Air VentAlso having good ventilation inside your shed is important to keep the air fresh which in turn discourages many insects to try to get in. Having a window with a screen that opens can let in fresh air. As well having at least one wall mounted vent that you can control is very helpful.

Check out the “Bewox Plastic Round Air Vent” that comes in sizes from 3 inch to 8 inch. These are easy to install and have screens inside to prevent access to insects and mice. I like these because all you need to do in the winter is stuff some pink insulation into the opening to seal off for the winter. You can check them out here on Amazon.

Number 4] Keep Soils Away From Shed… Don’t store your dirt or compost next to your shed, all sorts of insects love compost and that attracts spiders and even mice.

Number 5] Clean Tools… Hose off your tools before putting them into the shed and if your storing your bigger items like a wheelbarrow on the outside of your shed give it a hosing down when you’re putting it away.

Number 6] Relocate Bins… Many folks either store there garbage cans and recycling bins in their sheds of outside against the shed and under the overhang to protect them from the elements. While this seems like a good idea having those bins next to the shed attracts bugs and mice, so it’s better to find another place for them.

Not sure where to locate them you can read my article “5 Clever and Smart Outdoor Garbage Can Storage Ideas” for ideas and help in choosing a good option. You can read it here.

Number 7] Storage… Sometimes you have to keep some garden supplies in the shed so the kids or pets don’t get into them. A good way of doing this and keeping the insect away is to use some plastic storage containers that have tight sealing lids. I like to use the clear ones so I can see what’s in the container.

Number 8] Trees and Shrubs… Get into a good habit of keeping any tree branches that are hanging over or near the shed are trimmed back, also don’t have small brushes or other plants growing up against the shed.

Number 8] Pest Repelling Devices… While there are all kinds of different devices that claim to repel spiders and other insect as well as mice, I haven’t had much success with the devices I tried. Some folks swear by them, so it’s up to you if you want to give them a try. You can see Amazon’s full line of pest repellent devices here.

Dealing With Insects Living In Your Shed

Ortho Home Defense

With the large number of different insects that can get into your shed, you’re going to want something that will deal with all of them. I’m going to recommend “Ortho Home Defense” as the solution.

– Works and protects for up to 365 days.

– Has an extendable dispenser wand so you can apply without having to bend down.

– Fast drying and penetrates into the areas the insects are hiding.

– Safe for indoor use.

You can read the reviews and get more information from Amazon here.

Dealing With Mice in Your Shed

One of the biggest problems that many shed owners are going to face is dealing with mice. Mice are destructive little pests that are dirty and can bring in diseases into your shed. While they are larger than insects and spiders they have an ability to squeeze into the tiniest of holes and move into your shed, especially in the winter.

How to Prevent Mice From Getting Into Your Shed

Number 1] Remove Water Source… Just like most small critters if you have a water source that will attract mice. That’s why in so important to have good drainage around your shed so there’s no water under the shed that’s attracting the mice.

During the winter months make sure any water source that you have is turned off and if your using water in the shed make sure there’s no leaks and don’t leave containers that have water in them to have no sources inside for them to get water.

Number 2] Remove Any Food Sources… It’s not likely you have cheese in your shed; mice also will eat grass seeds and a wide variety of other seeds. If you’re going to be storing seeds and other items that are a food source use plastic containers that seal tightly.

Number 3] Nest Building Materials… Mice will build nests out of paper and cardboard so not keeping paper and cardboard in your shed will make it hard for mice to set up their nest and will likely move on to another place that will have the needed materials.

Number 4] Deterrent Material… If you need plug holes that the mice are getting into the shed from you’ll want to use either steel wool or a mesh material made out of copper. Using copper mesh has its advantages over steel wool because the copper mesh is much more difficult for mice to eat thru.

Ryans Shed Plans

How to Rid of Mice Already in The Shed

Number 1] Cat… Nearly all cats are mousers and do a great job of controlling mice populations. While cats do a great job, there is some commitment required with having a pet cat.

Number 2] Using Poisons… There are various types of poisons you can get to control mice and rats but, if you have pets and small children it’s not a good idea to use poison to control mice. I do use poison in my wood shed and place the packages between the rows of firewood.

Doing it this ways allows the mice to have access to the poison and at the same time preventing larger animals like cats and dogs from being able to get to the poison. As I use the firewood I remove any poison that’s left and dispose of it safety.

Number 3] Mouse Traps… These work great for dealing with an infestation without having to worry about having poisoned mice and worrying about pets eating a mouse that has been poisoned. I like to use peanut butter in my traps and it works very well.

I knew a Lady who would use live traps and as She caught them She would release them back outside. Works for those folks who don’t warn to harm the mouse I teased Her about how many would come back in.

How to Get Rid of Mice Naturally and Safely

For many using poisons and other types of non-natural mice repellents isn’t a good option and are concerned about the environment effect these repellents will have on them and their family members as well. Let’s take a look at a few all-natural mice repellents:

Number 1] Peppermint Oil… Peppermint is Mother Nature’s own repellent that gives off a very intense odor that rodents and some spiders just don’t like. It also masks over the smell of other attractants that can attract the mice.

When using peppermint oil on mice all you need to do is put 2 or 3 drops of the oil into some cotton balls and place the balls in the areas you see signs of mice.

Number 2] Block Access… There are several ways you can do this; the easiest way is to plug the hole that the mice are entering from. Steel wool works well for this or better yet nail a piece of wood or some metal flashing over the hole.

Ultrasonic Mice RepellentsNumber 3] Ultrasonic Repellent Devices… These I have found as I mentioned earlier don’t work very well for repelling spiders, but I have found them to be effective at repelling mice. A great product that will not harm the rodent and uses sound waves that mice don’t like to be near.

I’m going to recommend the “Neatmaster Ultrasonic Pest Repeller” if you’re looking for an effective way to keep mice away. This unit plugs in and has 3 settings, it has 770 user ratings and 327 answered questions. You can read the reviews and get all the information here on Amazon,

If you’re looking for a repellent device that operates on batteries you can check out Amazon’s full line of ultrasonic repellent devices here.


Dealing with insects and mice in your shed can be difficult sometimes, dealing with the issue sooner rather than later will be a better option as they breed fast and can cause a lot of damage and be a health risk.

Give some of the suggestions I have given in this article a try. However sometimes in extreme cases you may need to call in a professional pest exterminator for the big job. Feel free to share what you have found that works well in the comments. If you have found the article helpful please give it a share. Thanks for reading.